The next day the weather didn’t get any better. We still trained with our ice axes and crampons during the day and on how to rope up when attempting a summit climb. We could hardly see more than 10 feet in front of us because of the snow and winds and it showed how quickly you could lose someone in that lack of visibility. That evening our guides told us the itinerary for the climb. We would leave no later than 2:00 am in order to make it to the top and all the way back down by night fall.

The reason we do this is because the ice begins to significantly melt once the sun rises and it could be extremely dangerous coming back down since that is when most injuries happen. With the current extreme weather we all knew there was no way we’d be able to attempt if it continued. The storm had to stop completely for the guides to feel safe enough to take us up. That night I laid awake the entire time because the cabin was insanely cold and I was just praying for the winds to stop. At times it would stop for a few minutes and I’d get my hopes up. As time wore on and we got closer and closer to the deadline, the winds wouldn’t let down. Our guides never came to tell us to pack and get ready. I went back to sleep pretty disappointed and upset.

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